ThedevelopmenthistoryofChineseoperaCostumeqiuwanGaoCross—borderMovementsinMulhol

时间：2024-05-09

宁彦铭

【摘要】中国戏曲起源于原始社会的歌舞，有着很悠久的历史。戏曲是一门综合艺术，本质是角色扮演，构成戏曲的所有因素都体现并服务于这个本质，戏曲服饰是演员用以扮演角色的最直接、最形象的因素，故考察中国古代戏曲服饰问题，对研究中国古代戏曲的表演及其本质都是很有意义的。但由于长期以来人们对戏曲形态问题缺乏重视，目前关于戏曲服饰的研究不足，本文将结合戏曲的发展和演变，研究戏曲服饰从古代到近代的发展历史。

【关键词】戏曲服装；发展；特点

【Abstract】Chinese opera originated in the primitive society of song and dance which has a very long history. opera is a comprehensive art and it is the essence of the role of play which constitute all the elements of the opera are reflected and serve the essence of opera costumes is the actor to play the role of the most direct and most vivid factors， so the ancient Chinese opera costumes. To study the performance of ancient Chinese opera and its essence is very meaningful. However， due to the lack of attention to the problem of opera form， the current research on the costume of opera is not enough. This paper will study the development history of opera costume from ancient times to modern times.

【Key words】opera costume； development； characteristic

【作者簡介】qiuwan Gao， Tianjin University of Science&Technology.;

1. Introduction

Chinese traditional opera costume commonly known as “line head”. Belongs to the traditional Chinese opera performing arts drama costumes which belong to the “freehand art system”.China opera is a life by the processing of garment processing from the art of clothing to some extent similar to the history of life.And wonderful in the like with the elephant between the elephant clothing. Traditional opera costumes rely on and depend on the materialized aesthetic meaning of clothing with the traditional opera performance of the program， virtual and hypothetical match to “character for the vivid” service for the highest aesthetic pursuit of goals. With the beauty of the program， the rhythm of the United States， the beauty of decoration and the meaning of the beauty of the symbol. Drama dress with the times of change， change is very large， each era has the characteristics of each era. This paper studies the development and change of drama costume by combining the characteristics of drama with the change of the times.

2. Characteristics of Chinese opera costumes

2.1 Level characteristics are obvious

The development and maturation of traditional Chinese opera are all in feudal society， so opera is also the epitome of feudal society. Chinas feudal society is very strict， ordinary workers in the community is not the right to speak， so most of the traditional repertoire to the public to describe the royal thing， as well as the dignitaries of life and story. From the clothing style， to the color， and then to the clothing fabrics， clothing， no one of the details of the study is not a high society and the difference between the lower people. Such as mang dress with yellow， red， green and other twelve colors， this type of clothing are used by the royal palace， and embroidery and fabrics will choose the best. Many of which are Suzhou embroidery products， uniforms neat uniform pattern， pin densely consistent， colorful and impressive， called fine crafts. This expansion of the scope of the use of color， precision production， on the one hand to strengthen the stage color expression， on the other hand also highlights the high society of the luxury of the gas. And as the clothes of the people fold clothes， clothing color is emphasized to plain， the clothes on the embroidery pattern is simple， the clothes style is simple， thus highlighting the common civilians.

In addition to the difference in the level of drama costumes， the difference between decorations is also an important part of the drama costumes. In the upper class women have phoenix crown， chicken helmet， seven stars and so on， men wear is too numerous to mention. And small towel， towel， etc. has become a symbol of the people. Some other stage decorations， stage furnishings are also prominent at any time the status and identity of the different.

2.2 Variety of colors

Traditional opera dress gives the intuitive features of the color is diverse， in order to meet the different stage effects， there are different colors of the face. For the drama of the color of clothing， it is more mysterious and esoteric， it is attached to the peculiar style coupled with the craft on the shop brocade embroidery， showing a rich and colorful beauty. Traditional opera dress in the use of color has never been a single use， so the above combination of various colors， the choice of color is reached hundreds of as much.

In the traditional drama costumes in the distinctive colors， strong color contrast， the performance of the identity of distinctive， distinctive character of the opera characters. Such as our common stage on the show marshal up the scene， a group of generals dressed in different colors rely on. This is to rely on the different colors， so that the stage rich colors， the audience see “bright”， but also for the Marshal upstairs to create a certain atmosphere. In addition to playing the color of drama in order to enhance the stage effect， the character portrayed also has an irreplaceable position. Such as： “red table loyalty”， “black that brave integrity”， “pink on behalf of treacherous”， “blue on behalf of fierce” and so on， are through the color to pass the character information. It is precisely because of this caused by the contrast of the color of the opera in the traditional Chinese opera stage environment seems splendor， greatly increased the operas ornamental. Rich clothing color for us to shape a vivid image of the characters， so that the traditional Chinese opera stage more colorful.

2.3 connotation of national character

The traditional opera dress in the design connotation of the traditional Chinese culture on the absorption and reference， Confucianism totem pattern and so embodies the traditional Chinese national faith， which also formed a unique Chinese reputation of the international drama characteristics. Drama costumes in the synthesis of a number of traditional artistic achievements at the same time by the traditional art of aesthetic thinking. It introduced from the poetry of the “image， mood taste”， from the introduction of the painting “like， shape， the actual situation.” Such as the ancient legend of the phoenix for the king of birds， so in the costumes in the combination of phoenix and the dragon， with the rule of less / symbol； tiger， lion and other beast pattern is used in the generals of the engine， gripping， symbolic role Brave； plum， blue， bamboo， chrysanthemum and so on for the literati with the use of， but also often with their identity， temperament has some kind of contact. These symbolic culture originated from the traditional Chinese Confucianism and folklore， all of which are unique to China. Such as in the festive scene， the red as the main color； the stage of the prisoners on the stage of the prisoners to wear plain slander sack； white in the Chinese customs is mourning clothes， the protagonist of the deceased relatives of white clothes， or Wrapped in a white cloth on the head to express. The characteristics of these specific scenes of clothing are derived from the traditional Chinese color concept， reflecting the characteristics of our customs. In addition， the opera stage there are a lot of play with the color is the impact of the description of the novel， but these expressions can be long-term spread， but also with its relatively successful performance of the characters inseparable. Such as Guan Yu， in the North Song opera was hook red face， wearing a red robe， to the Ming Dynasty Yiyang cavity was changed to red face， green robe.

2.4 Stage effect

Opera performance is a comprehensive performing arts， it is required to perform the performers also have their body language requirements， so also became a drama in the “singing， reading， playing， ” four kung fu. We can imagine a drama performance down， the actors can not echo in the middle to change clothes， so that the opera dress in the gorgeous at the same time should also have the stage practicality.

Traditional opera dress in the design will be based on the different needs of the role of different designs. Such as water sleeves， difficult tail and so the role is to make the actors performance more comfortable， increase the stage effect. At the same time the actors can use the characteristics of clothing to highlight the performance of their own posture beauty. Relatively speaking， can also be used to cover the body is not perfect place. Such as clothing in the “rely on” is the traditional drama of the large costumes， round tight collar cuffs， coat under the Sang connected， and the ancient “deep clothing” similar to the characteristics of the length of the robe with a large square， it clothing two， Non-clothing， like a non-A， although the clothing piece of Kai-like pattern， but not close to the body， extreme exaggeration and deformation， so that it separates the clothing quietly gives the characters to the mighty， moving is easy to exaggerate the dance action， Embodies the ancient opera costumes “can dance.”

3. The Evolution of Chinese Traditional opera Costumes

3.1 primitive social drama costumes

Drama originated in the primitive society， primitive society in the original drama of the body is the original song and dance， and with the clan gradually grow， dance and gradually develop and improve. Such as in some ancient rural areas， but also maintained a long tradition of song and dance， such as “Nuo opera”； the same time， some new songs such as “social fire”， “Yangge” and other people to meet the spiritual needs of the birth.

The origins of ancient Chinese opera costumes are closely related to the origins of opera and costumes. The opera is rooted in the primitive role-playing， and the costumes are produced by the original mans own dress. Therefore， opera costumes also originated in the primitive people through the dress itself and the role of play. Existing primitive paintings and ancient literature， recorded many of the original people dress up the performance of animals. They used to play the animal fur， Lingzi， is the descendants of the equipment in the budding clothing. The period of exorcism and rituals in the Shang and Zhou dynasties is often accompanied by the performance of God. Wizards dressed gods used strange mask and gorgeous costumes， is the death of the gods in the costumes of the beginning of the beginning. Later， the performance of God in the entertainment and entertainment and entertainment functions of the separation， transformation， contributed to the birth of a special artist - advocate. “Yimeng dressed” is a popular advocate for the successful performance of reality. To “Sun Shu Ao dress” to dress Sun Shuao， Yumeng is one of the important conditions for success. This performance created a tradition of opera from the life of the opera.

3.2 Han Dynasty opera dress

Han， Sui Wei for the spectacular hundred opera performances， and constantly promote the progressive art of progress. More common， but according to historical records， the shape of the Han Dynasty dress， color， accessories， and so mostly to imitate the shape of animals and gods to design the soul of the “beast dance” dance image can be seen in many historical books， such as the ancient Yuefu poetry There are “birds and animals warehouse， ” Phoenix to the instrument， “stone hit stone， 100 beast rate dance， ” the record， which， ‘phoenix birds， “beasts”， that is， people with birds feathers， The image of the dance performance， this custom later formed a folk dance art form has been retained， so far still part of Chinas ethnic minority areas spread.

Han dance dance dance often used red and black， with a clear symbol of Chinese culture. According to Wang Chong in the “Lun Heng Ji ghost” in the records： ‘rabbit yang also， when the time to see. Yang Qi red， so the world to see the ghost color pure Zhu. In the thousands of monks on the murals of the square of the mask is also red， twenty twenty accounts are also “Dan first mysterious system”， the deacon is “Phi hair， wearing red Clothing， “although they are not wearing the gods of the wizard， but they are evasive from the costume， we can easily infer that the color of the dance was also red when the red， and black in the witchcraft etiquette There is Xiao kill the meaning of evil to evil， to ghost system is our ancestors pass God evil spirits， weeping prodigy of the usual thinking， with the dance dance dance mask， fake and exorcise the color， to create a Evil and desperate struggle of the fierce scenes， in the unparalleled man of madness to get rid of the sense of victory of the devil， this is the god of clothing and even spread the clothing with the cultural function and meaning. Play beast， play God， play performance and Its clothing on the basis of the previous generation was a greater development.

From the altar to the folk dance， to retain the cultural heritage of God also， the reality of the people to slender robe and wide fat large sleeves dress up， as the stage for people to observe and follow the example. Its slender robe， broad broad sleeves， thick colors， gorgeous decoration and dressers intended to be the shape and movement of birds， all contain the most realistic pursuit of human life， carrying more of the universe on the sky Asked about the soul of the flesh and mind and reverie， and it is this ideal， has become the aesthetic source of later opera costumes. The cloak， the beast， the lion tail and so on， are from the reality， but beyond the reality of the image of Gods incarnation， Takefus clothing and its exaggerated difficult chicken Ling is the desire to deceive the image of the human aesthetic expression， is the music and dance in the image of the ideal image of the pursuit of reality， this extension makes the later generations in the folk can be widely circulated drama costumes， has not been able to divorce from it Of the character image characteristics， but with from life but beyond the aesthetic intentions of life.

3.3 Tang Dynasty opera dress

In the opera performances of the Tang Dynasty， male opera actors wear gowns， such as the Tang Dynasty Su Si tomb in the dance map murals， the middle of the dancers wearing a pointed hat， wearing a round robes， robe back， sleeves Narrow and extremely long， pedal boots. On both sides of a total of nine people accompaniment accompaniment， the other side also have one person， a total of two accompaniment. This eleven people are wearing a web head， web head feet fluttering back， wearing a round robes， pedal boots. Late Tang poet Lutherans “poem” poem： “play robe Phi mattress， bad hat wearing boots felt.” Mr. Ren Tong Tong that from the poem “and that the costumes， will be mainly in the robe， children impression Especially deep， and then form the imitation. “ It can be seen that the male costumes of the Tang Dynasty drama costumes are dominated by gowns. As shown in Chapter 2， the performers of the armys play in the second chapter wear green robe， as in the tomb of Xinjiangs Astana， Beat the mother “among the tricks， playing the actor in the Soviet Union is wearing a white bloated robe.

On the female opera actor clothing， Tang Dynasty music and dance performances in the womens clothing mostly dressed in waxy， shirt， lower body long skirt， mostly high waist skirt， skirt is very high， generally above the waist， and some even in the Armpit， so wear the law can be elongated and improve the proportion of body， giving a slim beauty. Womens short glutinous skirt， jacket half-arm， shoulder to take the way the dress is the most basic form， the style is generally short-sleeved sleeve or sleeve short-sleeved， half-breasted in the chest with knuckle， Wearing. Half-arm length and waist flush， half-arm hem， can appear out， you can also beam within the long skirt）. Tang Dynasty music and dance performances in the basic form of womens clothing and womens life in the Tang Dynasty dress roughly the same， but in the form of sleeves or other aspects will do some exaggerated changes.

Singing and dancing drama and said that the opera is the Tang Dynasty Arts in the two striking wonderful work. Singing and dancing is in the form of song and dance role-playing， clothing for the role， the plot and set， pay attention to decorative and emotional. Said the opera is a funny white form of the role of performance， participate in military drama is its typical representative. Participation in military dress clothing due to color and set Join the armys “green plain”， and the Tang Dynasty military officers wear similar； the elf wear and the city common people dress similar. Two feet color clothing features distinctive， already has a program.

3.4 Song Dynasty dynasty opera costumes

Song gold has been active in the drama of two operas， that is， Zaju and South play. Zaju in the court and the people have a lot of the audience， is the Song Dynasty mainstream opera. Song Jin rulers put the drama as an important program of the palace feast， folk column also put the drama as a permanent show. Song Jin opera drama， greatly promoted the development of drama costumes. Song Jin Zaju according to the characteristics of their performance， focusing on the development of the deputy end， deputy net costumes， making funny costumes mature. Installed solitary， packed feet Zhuang Zhuang Zhuang Zhuang， also in the haiku excellent service on the basis of access to a larger development. Song Jin Zaju inherited the Tang Dynasty costume decorative， symbolic， procedural characteristics and have been promoted. Formed in the Song Dynasty at the turn of the Southern Opera， the beginning of the survival of the poor competition. It did not like the Zaju into the Song Dynasty court， as a member of the mainstream culture. South opera chose the road of development of the people， its feet rich， comprehensive strengthening， reflecting the problem is also more painful. South opera performance is characterized by character， flexibility， and therefore the development of a simple and highly expressive drama costumes. Literature records of the Song Jin Zaji costumes， when the opera artists used to reflect the social reality of clothing mostly from the Song Dynasty daily life costumes. Some of which were originally peoples life costumes， such as officials usually wear public clothes， the scholars Confucianism and “head”， “Dongpo hat” and so on； there are some Zaju costumes only for the performance needs in the original life costumes On the basis of a slight change， such as “clothing” of the “half” clothing， Qin Hui head on the “double win” type towel tweezers and officials on the head of the “red towel” and so on.

Song Jin Zaju has not really quit the stage of history， Yuan Zaju， Ming opera drama have come to the stage. Yuan Zaju Although stepping on the drums of the Song Dynasty from the drums， but its costumes have been comparable to the opera. Ming Dynasty majesty to court the advantages of play， in the clothing took a decisive step. It is flexible to absorb， use the Ming Dynasty life clothing to play the role， and constantly improve the opera costumes， symbolic， decorative features. In particular， it is the eunuchs to play the role of generals， it directly contributed to the opera dress can be the ultimate form of dance.

First of all， the costumes of the Song Dynasty followed the costumes of the Tang Dynasty， the change is not too great. In general， the men?s clothing is a cross-collar or round neck robe， black and white-based； women?s clothing is a narrow-sleeved dress with a long skirt， jacket， sometimes wearing a long sleeve of the card， lace. Official clothing is generally divided into uniforms， uniforms， Rongfu， sacrifice and so on. Dress is generally red， lined with white in the single， different official goods， uniforms in the service with a single， which is the main difference. Officials dressed more often clothes， according to official goods are divided into blue， green， Zhu color， purple and so on.

3.5 Ming dynasty opera costumes

After the founding of the Ming Dynasty Zhu Yuanzhang， a change of clothing system， the provisions of the Tang and Song dress. Official service is also divided into the basic service， uniforms， uniforms and so on. Ming Dynasty officials of the uniforms， generally for the Wu Sha hat， the group tie shirt， grade according to the belt difference， a product for the jade belt， two products for the rhinoceros， three products for the honeysuckle， four products for the prime gold， five products for the silver flower， Su silver， eight nine products for the horns. Ming Dynasty dress and the Tang and Song dynasties， the difference is mainly reflected in the proportion of dress， the Tang Dynasty dress dress ratio is the dress skirt long； to the Ming Dynasty， coat stretched， only exposed less skirt tail， collar by the collar For the round neck. Ming Dynasty， also appeared in the skirt more clothing type， known as the Pteris skirt， pleated skirt and so on. Ming Dynasty women?s crown has two characteristics： one is the phoenix crown， embroidered with Phoenix and dragon decoration， for the concubine wear， embroidered with colored lines for the ordinary life of women wear； the second is the quilt， because the color of color Choi Ha， so called Xia was， usually for life women dress. To pattern distinction between the base， such as one， two for the long tail mountain cone pattern， three， four products for the peacock pattern， five products for the mandarin duck pattern， six， seven products for Yunxia practice magpie pattern and so on. The service of the plains of the Ming Dynasty.

Decorated in general for the growth of the green cloth coat， wearing a square towel， or wrapped in scarves or wear melon skin cap. Song Dynasty dress， in the traditional opera dress was carried out art change.

China?s earliest drama dress is basically what kind of dynasty to wear what kind of clothing. After the Ming Dynasty， the opera is basically based on the clothing of the Ming Dynasty， although the Qing Dynasty after the entry， the implementation of Manchu costumes， but in the opera dress， the government accepted the Ming Dynasty imperial treasures of the ?not from? Male from the female not from， Confucianism and thus do not from the release， Juan so outstanding from the elites， the official and thus marriage from the country so that the official number from the tax so that the language from the language. So the opera dress still retains the original regulation. This kind of policy， the inheritance of the opera culture has played a huge role in promoting， so that the opera culture can be more completely retained.

Opera costumes in the Ming Dynasty clothing， but slightly different. Drama costumes for the character modeling and the pursuit of the stage effect， its decorative more prominent than the real clothing is more vivid， clothing pattern is more diverse， more complex color changes， personality is more prominent. Such as scarves， opera dress， the doctors scarf according to age is different， older， wearing a square to show its holding characteristics； romantic melancholy scholar is wearing a towel to show its elegant and elegant personality characteristics ； Like those handsome white side scholar， then the soft-winged yarn cap-based to show its young and beautiful characteristics. Therefore， the Ming Dynasty drama costumes， the basic already has a very complete regulation.

According to the ?solitary Yuan and Yuan Dynasty drama? records， the Ming Dynasty has the actor?s role clothing has been clearly defined， such as the hat has 36 species， crown， helmet， towel， cap， robe has 58 species， and even women?s headdress also seven or eight Species. According to the type of character division， has the emperor installed， civilian equipment， military officer， women?s clothing， common people loaded， monk Road equipment， gods installed， ghosts and other equipment. The characters of the clothing， mostly in the Ming Dynasty clothing as the basis， such as officials， both Qin and Han Tang and Song， are round neck gown； generals are generally Fengji helmet， knee Lan Sha； soldiers are generally red bowl helmet， Xiao cloth nail a.

In addition， some people because of women and children know， has formed a stereotypes of the wear， such as Guan Yu， green towel head， three bearded beard； Zhang Fei is a towel head， Meng beard， the characteristics are extremely clear.

3.6 Qing Dynasty opera costumes

Qing Dynasty opera costumes to add some of the elements of Manchu costumes， the sense of the times is also very prominent， such as in the dan dress， there are high-end shoes， which is Manchu noble women?s dress， this costume is generally used for ? Mother ?of the iron mirror princess and? bead curtain village ?of the two princes and other ethnic minority characters.

The legend of the Ming and Qing dynasties from the mother of the mother after birth， by the upper and lower layers of social concern， not only a large number of writers for its creation script， and there are many artists who act for the bustling. Legendary clothing from the development of ordinary clothes， but with the performance of the increasingly mature， it gradually get rid of the dependence on life clothing， stand alone. It no longer use the name of life fashion， but with their own independent title.

The Qing Dynasty drama with its magnificent momentum， declared its brilliant presence. It has developed the ancient court acting to the extreme， but also to the drama costumes finally mature. The magnificent dress is beautiful， not only for the drama show Tim color， but also to make themselves eventually become a people for the appreciation of the independent art.

4. The application of traditional opera costumes in modern dress

Opera costumes inherit the traditional Chinese culture， in the international arena more and more attention. Fashion designers in their own costume design， from the opera costumes to draw inspiration， the organic use of creative clothing into.

In the design of Chinese wedding dress， the elements of the opera costumes for effective reference， the pattern on the use of the town of Feng Feng or Feng Feng pattern， forming a ?phoenix? series of wedding dress. Opera patterns in the dragon， Feng Wen and water lines and other clever use in short paragraph small dress， the fabric will become more rich， the image is more innovative. Chinese style long dress through the use of opera dress in the cloud shoulder design， highlighting the female graceful shoulder line beauty. Pattern of the dragon， group of Phoenix and the organic integration of flowers，

So that the improvement of Chinese and Western cheongsam reflects the oriental women virtuous， elegant， restrained temperament. Red， gold and purple and other oriental colors in the evening dress in the application， reflects the traditional Chinese clothing culture profound. Drama costumes are cleverly applied by designers to womens underwear， making it an appreciative， creative dress art. At the same time， the opera pattern in the broken branches of the floral pattern and the wind is cleverly applied to the gymnastics costumes， the performance of the movement of fluency and explosive power. Tiger pattern and dragon-based table tennis dress， showing the Chinese table tennis teams mighty and domineering.

Conclusion

The opera costumes are closely related to the people?s life from the date of the production of the performance art. It is a kind of carrier that reflects the human production struggle， the wars and the prayer. The early performing arts， with dance and singing earlier in other forms， and song and dance are the important composition and main features of the Chinese opera body. Singing and dancing must not be dressed， from the song and dance alone that day， the opera dress to accompany. And born， with the changes in the content of the need to use， decoration， processing and even deformation in reality. Even from the reality of the farthest God of the image， but also from the human body is not open. So God?s dress is also a variant of human clothing and exaggeration， this exaggeration is the width of the sleeves， the length of clothing， robe of the fat， color odd and embellishment of the renovation only. The traces of the development of Chinese opera costumes are from the simple to the complex， from simple to gorgeous， from the imitation of life to the generalization of the opera.

Drama costumes in the Chinese clothing culture has an irreplaceable role， we analyze the characteristics of drama costumes， we must use a unique traditional history and culture， combined with the characteristics of traditional opera， appreciate its essence， to understand， find the beauty of drama， absorption and Learn the essence of clothing culture， and better serve the opera.

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